Getting married in a tuxedo

The tuxedo as a wedding suit

The tuxedo is one of those ultimate key pieces that you should have. If the dress code is black tie during your wedding day, you will wear a tuxedo in the evenings, so when the sun is up and not before. And during the day you wear a Jacquet, also called Morning Coat.

Even more tips for your wedding suit

This tuxedo was made for a wedding but has its own twist because the client does not want to appear too formal and is not a fan of black.

We have therefore replaced the black fabric with a dark navy blue so that it appears more personal and less stiff. The accents are still made in black satin.

This way you can make your wedding clothes much more personal through minimal differences without coming across as a clown. I think that's called nuanced. :)

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3 roll 2 unlined jacket with a lot of 'Italian' details

This is a 3 roll 2 / three roll two jacket that we have just made that will be used as a show model in our studio at Bilderdijkstraat 179 in Amsterdam.

Sample jackets always help to inspire and visualize details. And this way you can do something useful with leftover materials.

This jacket is handmade with an unlined construction and many details that are often associated with Made in Italy

The method is unlined, there are many variants of this and in this piece the sleeves are lined and the seams on the inside of the front and back panels are finished with the lining.

This also ensures that they do not fray and the jacket remains beautiful for longer. The sleeve lining helps to make the jacket easy to put on.

For the shoulder we opted for a Spalla Camicia, so the sleeve is deployed like the sleeve of a shirt under the shoulder instead of against it.

The shoulder seam is made with a folded back seam. Just such an understated detail that is a point of recognition for people who appreciate sartorial handmade clothing.

This time we made the outside pockets curved, secretly stolen from our friend Luca Rubinacci, so to speak.

You also see pick stitching with a purple thread running over the lapel, panels, pockets and shoulder.

Hmmm, because the Mohair fabric is quite crisp, I think it is a bit too present, but even after 20 years in the business of making handmade suits, you continue to learn.

If you pay close attention, you will also see the 3 roll 2 style of the lapel. So an extra buttonhole that is not used, typical Napoli.

The fabric is a black Mohair from Holland & Sherry of 280 grams. Ideal for summer and wrinkle-free.

The inner pockets are made with a zipper so that you are protected against pickpockets while traveling.

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Made-to-measure suits: Patterns are a big difference between bespoke and made-to-measure suits/clothing

When you have your bespoke suit made to measure, your measurements are taken and then translated onto a paper pattern.

Patterns are the difference between bespoke suits and made-to-measure suits

For bespoke suits, this pattern is made per customer based on individual sizes and wearing preferences. Think about space to move around, so you can create the ideal and desired fit. Made-to-measure works with a standard pattern that is adjusted. You will then not have the ideal fit because you have to work with fixed margins and you will lose the balance between the sizes.

A made-to-measure pattern has also already been created to create a certain pre-selected model. With a bespoke pattern you can create any model, so this also makes a big difference and opens the door to many more models and styles.

Bespoke suits offer total freedom

You can compare bespoke tailoring with having a house designed and made under 100% architecture. Total freedom. Made-to-Measure suits can be seen as housing with options to place the door on the left or right. Restrictions and adjustments unfortunately. It can be a good suit, but it will never have the fit of a bespoke suit. Nor be in the style that would flatter you best.

Bespoke suits are handmade

Especially because a bespoke suit is made by hand and a made-to-measure suit is made industrially. Just go to such a production location and you will see little of the marketing with well-groomed gray gentlemen who leisurely make your clothes with time and attention. You actually see rows of workers making your suit in an assembly line process. That ensures a different quality and hence a lower price.

We often work with customers who started with MTM suits but still have more wishes or are simply curious about what else you can achieve if you have your suits/jackets/pants made bespoke. It often starts with further adjusting an MTM suit and this is how one discovers the added value of a bespoke tailor.

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