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Three roll Two suits/jackets have a special place among fans of bespoke and sartorially made suits.
The nice thing about this type of assignment is that it also challenges us and gives us a lot of fun.
When making a retro suit, the traditional method of making, fabrics and the model all play a role that reinforce each other.
The fabric for a 20s / 30s suit: A Wool Flannel 340 gram black and white puppy tooth fabric from Holland & Sherry was chosen. Also called Houndstooth or Pied de Poule fabric. A beautiful fabric for those who want that real vintage retro feeling when wearing, as the fabrics also come from those times and that is a must.
The suit model is a three roll two (3 roll 2) and is the ultimate for the sartorial enthusiast and gentleman. There are many details that exude the Roaring 20's, such as: Rope shoulders, wide lapels (11cm), Barchetta style chest pocket, handmade buttonholes and a haircloth interior.
The waistcoat is a nice addition that can be worn with or without the jacket. Made in the same flannel fabric in a double breasted model with lapels where the back is also made of fabric and of course with a bronzed buckle on the back.
The retro flannel trousers drape very well due to the weight of the fabric and are nice and warm to wear. The tailor-made trousers have buttons to wear with suspenders, buckles on the waistband (side pulls) and a wide waistband of 6 cm in line with the idea of this vintage 3-piece suit.
Do you dress yourself, or do you buy clothes?
In our atelier we regularly receive requests to copy items. These are often garments that people have owned for years and that are no longer available in stores. You notice that a lot of quality clothing that used to be readily available in retail simply no longer exists. This is because quality products require a great deal of time, money and expertise.
Unfortunately we must conclude that we live in a zeitgeist where it is no longer about dressing people but simply about selling textiles with a whole lot of marketing. The result: poorly made and fitting clothing at a far too high price.
In this video you see how it can also be done, after years of wearing a jacket, we copy it (simply) so that the favourite garment can often be realised with improvements, gained through the progressive insight that comes from years of wearing it.
Introduction
In a world where “tailor made” increasingly means: “we take your measurements and modify a standard pattern,” the baste fit has almost disappeared.
Too expensive. Too time-consuming. “No longer necessary with modern techniques.”
But for anyone who truly understands what bespoke tailoring means, the baste fit is not optional. It is the moment when a suit transforms from a collection of patterns and cloth into a garment built around your unique body.
In this article, I take you through my own baste fitting — not as an expert, but as a client with a challenging body: a stomach, uneven shoulders, and a specific arm rotation.
Amy, our tailor, explains what she sees, why she corrects, and how she makes my body perform at its best inside a suit.
Nothing is more frustrating than a shirt that keeps coming out of your trousers. Whether you are sitting, walking, or standing up, a messy shirt is something you want to avoid.
In this short blog and video, we explain how to keep your shirt neatly tucked in without sacrificing comfort.
Super 150s: The Story Behind the Fabric
Why a Super 150s suit is not what you think - and how to make the right choice for your professional life
Laurens-Jan's Choice: Two Suits, Two Worlds
Laurens-Jan works at Optiver, one of the world's leading high-frequency trading and market making firms. In his role, everything revolves around client contact - meetings with institutional investors, dinners with traders, moments when millions of euros in decisions are made about futures and options.
In that world, trust is everything. And trust begins in those first three seconds when you enter a room.
"My clients work with the most sophisticated financial instruments. They expect precision, reliability, professionalism at the highest level. If I didn't look like I understand that, why would they trust me with their portfolio?"
But here comes the challenge: in the world of equities and futures trading, everything happens fast. Meetings follow one another. You jump from office to restaurant to client dinner. Your suit must perform without you constantly thinking about it. It must be ready for action, always.
"I can't think every morning about whether my suit is going to hold up today. It just has to work. Think of it like silverware - it should be of such quality that you simply use it, without worry, and it remains perfect for years."
That's why he didn't choose one suit, but two very different Super 150s suits. Luxury that is reliable. Softness and durability. The best of both worlds.
The shoulder line of a suit or jacket is one of the most defining elements of its appearance and fit. A subtle difference in construction can make a jacket look structured and formal or relaxed and natural. That’s why choosing a shoulder style is essential for anyone investing in a bespoke suit.
In bespoke tailoring, everything revolves around the balance between comfort, style, and the desired look. The way a shoulder is constructed influences not only the appearance of a suit but also how it feels and how it accentuates the wearer’s body shape. In this article, we discuss three commonly used shoulder styles: the Classic Shoulder, the Rope Shoulder, and the Spalla Camicia. We explain how they are constructed, what kind of look they create, and which styles or body types they suit best.
Off-White and Lightweight: A Bespoke Suit for a Summer Beach Wedding
An off-white suit may appear simple at first glance, yet wearing it well, especially at a summer beach wedding, requires the right balance of fabric, construction and proportion.
This bespoke double-breasted suit was designed to be light, functional and refined, perfectly suited to the warm, bright and breezy conditions of a summer wedding by the sea.
At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring, we do not see a summer suit as seasonal clothing but as a thoughtful balance between coolness, comfort, mobility and aesthetics. Every detail serves a purpose.
White-Tie Outfit for a Freemason Debuting at the Wiener Ball
For a Thai gentleman making his debut at the Wiener Ball in Vienna, we created a fully bespoke three-piece suit made to measure. A commission that demanded precision at every level, because the Wiener Ball is not just any gala evening. It is one of the most formal and most iconic balls in the world, where the dress code is taken seriously and every detail counts.