More than decoration:
What sleeve buttons reveal about your jacket
The buttons on a jacket sleeve are more than mere decoration; they tell a story of style, craftsmanship, and tradition.
Below you’ll find a comprehensive guide to the different aspects of sleeve buttons – including their origins, variations, and what they reveal about a jacket’s quality.
🧵 Number of buttons on the sleeve
3 or 4 buttons are most common. Four buttons are often associated with formal suits, while three give a slightly more relaxed appearance.
2 buttons appear on more casual or fashion-forward designs.
5 buttons are rare and sometimes used for a bold effect.
The number of buttons is usually aligned with the style and purpose of the jacket.
🤝 Kissing buttons vs. spaced buttons
Kissing buttons: The buttons touch or slightly overlap. This is considered a sign of refined craftsmanship and is often seen on bespoke or high-end jackets.
Spaced buttons: The buttons are evenly spaced and do not touch. This is typical of ready-to-wear garments and gives a more traditional look.
Kissing buttons are a subtle sign of attention to detail and are often appreciated by connoisseurs.
🩺 Functional buttonholes (Surgeon’s Cuffs)
Non-functional buttonholes: These are purely decorative and most common on ready-to-wear jackets. They are easier to produce and make sleeve length alterations more feasible.
Functional buttonholes (Surgeon’s Cuffs): These can be opened and closed. They are a hallmark of bespoke and high-end made-to-measure tailoring.
Historically, these buttonholes allowed surgeons to roll up their sleeves while working – hence the name. Today, they signal craftsmanship and quality.
🎨 Decorative choices
Leaving one button open: A subtle sign the jacket was custom-made.
Accent colour on the last buttonhole: For example, purple or red – a discreet but personal detail.
Hand-sewn buttonholes: Recognisable by their slightly uneven, thicker stitching – a clear sign of artisan handwork.
These decorative choices give the jacket a personal touch and underline the attention to detail.
📊 What do these details say about the jacket?
| Detail | Indication |
|---|---|
| Non-functional buttonholes | Ready-to-wear |
| Functional buttonholes | Made-to-measure or bespoke |
| Kissing buttons | Greater refinement |
| Hand-sewn buttonholes | Bespoke tailoring |
| One button left open | Subtle flair, sign of craftsmanship |
These details offer insight into the level of quality and craftsmanship behind the jacket.
📚 Learn more
For a deeper look at functional buttonholes and other bespoke tailoring details, visit our blog:
Making Working Buttonholes elevates a jacket from good to great
Elevating a suit jacket from a standard off-the-rack piece to a garment that exudes custom luxury can be accomplished with the addition of working buttonholes, often referred to as "surgeon's cuffs".
How do you recognize a well-made suit?
A well-made suit has a number of features that, apart from the fit, make it easy to distinguish it from less well-made suits such as Made-to-Measure suits. The details of a handmade bespoke suit are easy to recognise and quite obvious when you know what to look for. So let's see what are the points to recognise a well-made suit.
The Jackets Featured in This Blog
The various button styles you see in this blog come from custom-made jackets and suits from our collection. Every detail was carefully chosen in consultation with the client. Want to see more of each full look – including fabric choice, fit and finish? Simply click the image or button next to each example for more information and photos of the specific piece.
Formal tailoring in its purest form
A white suit immediately evokes images of evening wear, summer formality, and a touch of Hollywood glamour. But when it comes to a bespoke 4x1 double-breasted suit in white barathea, we’re speaking about something very specific: a garment that balances classical ceremony with modern confidence.
Getting Married in Style: A Custom-Made Tuxedo for an Evening Wedding in Dubai
A wedding is one of the most special moments in life, and it calls for an outfit that is both stylish and timeless. For a recent commission, we designed a custom-made tuxedo for an evening wedding in vibrant Dubai. The result? A classic yet unique tuxedo that perfectly aligns with the groom’s wishes, the formality of the occasion, and the distinctive setting of the wedding.
Bespoke Jacket Rust Maroon Contrast
This tailored jacket is made from an Airesco fabric from Holland & Sherry. A special fabric because it is a heavyweight suit fabric but is excellent for warmer temperatures.
Norfolk Sports Jacket
The jacket is made in a Hopsack weave with a fabric made from a combination of Wool, Linen and Silk, with a canvas made from linen and horse hair. This makes the jacket very supple and light weight.
Corduroy Bespoke Suit
This beautiful 2-piece corduroy bespoke suit in the warm Chocolate Brown shade is a stylish choice for those aiming to exude relaxed elegance.
The Story Behind a Donegal Tweed Jacket: Craftsmanship, Tradition, and Timeless Style
At De Oost, we design our Donegal Tweed jackets for those who value true craftsmanship and quality. This garment is not just a blazer; it represents a centuries-old tradition rooted in the rugged landscapes of Ireland, where Donegal fabric has been produced for generations. But what makes a Donegal Tweed jacket so special? The answer lies in the fabric, the style, and the thoughtful choices that lead to a garment that is both functional and elegant.
Tweed Country Jacket
Dit Tweed Country Jacket is meer dan alleen een fashion statement; het is een praktische keuze voor degenen die zowel stijl als functionaliteit waarderen.
Wedding Suit Three Piece Flannel
This is a three-piece suit made entirely with fabrics from Fox Brothers, specifically from the Vintage Fox collection. A fabric collection that is a favorite among style and quality enthusiasts as well as tailors, especially in terms of appearance and performance. A cut above the rest, so to speak.
A Sustainable Investment – The Bespoke Suit for the Top of Consultancy
This custom-made bespoke suit was crafted for a client working at KPMG, who frequently travels to England for board meetings. In the United Kingdom, wearing a high-quality, handmade suit at executive level is more of a rule than an exception, unlike in the Netherlands. Our client seeks a suit that effortlessly handles every situation, is stylish without frills, and exudes a strong, confident presence.
Wedding Suit Sapphire Green Merino Wool with Sand Herringbone Tweed Waistcoat
A wedding suit no longer has to be limited to the wedding day itself. More and more grooms are choosing an ensemble that is not only festive but also suitable for other occasions. This bespoke three-piece wedding suit is a perfect example: classic, stylish, and surprisingly versatile.
