dinner jackets for every formal evening
Tranquility, detail & freedom within etiquette
Three dinner jackets, one pair of trousers, and the alchemy of quiet elegance
Some clients have taste, others have vision. When both come together, something rare is possible: clothing that is not only correct, but layered, personal, and surprisingly versatile.
That’s how the conversation started with a calm gentleman, tall and lean, the owner of a biotech investment fund. Not a man of spectacle, but of precision. Not searching for a garment, but for certainty — something that simply feels right, for himself and for the occasion.
We didn’t create just a tuxedo, we created possibilities. Three dinner jackets paired with one classic black trouser, made for fundraisers, formal dinners and receptions. Traditional moments, with room for a modern interpretation of style. A quiet version of formal freedom.
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The foundation: one trouser for all
The black tuxedo trouser forms the base. Made from a barathea cloth from Bateman Ogden’s Midnight Oasis collection (DW 767, 400g).
Black, deep, and without shine, with a satin stripe along the outer seam.
Side adjusters instead of belt loops, a 3 cm cuff as a style accent, and a discreet zip fly.
Barathea is classic, dry and matte — ideal for evening wear. It wears comfortably under warm lighting and strikes the right balance between structure and elegance.
Dinner Jacket I: a new take on black
Made from barathea in the Midnight Oasis collection by Bateman Ogden (DW 767, 400g).
Satin-covered peak lapels in black
Handmade buttonholes with satin-covered buttons
Slanted welt pockets trimmed in black satin
Handcrafted with full canvas construction, using linen and horsehair
Single vent, in accordance with traditional etiquette, although a double vent is increasingly preferred
Black satin lining
This is not an off-the-rack tuxedo, but a garment that offers calm and space, fully tailored to a 200 cm tall physique.
Dinner Jacket II: red velvet, full and rich
Velvet in 100% cotton, Caccioppoli 310165, 400g.
Deep red velvet with black satin shawl collar
One-button closure, rich lining in black, gold and red
Handmade buttonholes with satin-covered buttons
Slanted welt pockets trimmed in black satin
Handcrafted with full canvas construction, using linen and horsehair
Single vent, traditional choice, with option for double
Velvet absorbs rather than reflects light, radiating quiet luxury. Ideal for private dinners or formal events with character.
Dinner Jacket III: off-white twill
Twill from Bateman Ogden, 400g, bright and tightly woven.
Shawl collar and details in black satin
Cream-coloured handmade buttonholes with satin-covered buttons
Cream satin lining with a subtle renaissance motif — a light lining is essential with white or cream jackets to avoid show-through
Slanted welt pockets trimmed in black satin
Handcrafted with full canvas construction, using linen and horsehair
Single vent in line with classic etiquette
The perfect choice for formal events in warmer settings, outdoor locations or summer fundraisers.
The history of the dinner jacket
The dinner jacket originated as the informal smoking jacket of the 19th century, worn at home to protect clothes from tobacco ash.
Often made of silk or velvet, with a shawl collar
Later evolved into the modern dinner jacket
Introduced by Edward VII as a more relaxed alternative to the tailcoat
Known in America as the tuxedo
Every lapel style, every fabric, every colour carries history — and defines how a man presents himself to the world.
The four foundations of a perfect dinner jacket
Material, more than just fabric
Formalwear demands cloths with calm, structure and strength.
Barathea is breathable and matte, with a dry handle
Velvet adds texture, absorbs light and creates intimacy
Twill offers crispness and weight without creasing or show-through
Each cloth is chosen not just for colour, but for behaviour — how it drapes, breathes and responds to evening light.
Make, the silent difference
All garments are handmade with a full canvas interior using linen and horsehair — the foundation of true tailoring.
No fused layers, only breathable, natural structure
The jacket moulds to the body and moves with it
Lapels, lining, buttonholes and shoulders are all hand-shaped
The result is visible, tangible, and lasting.
Model, form follows meaning
Peak lapels offer presence and formality, lifting the silhouette
Shawl collars are rounder, softer, and often paired with velvet or lighter cloths
Each model changes how a garment feels and flatters. Peak lapels are architectural and assertive, the shawl collar is flowing and charming.
Measuring, the art of the pattern
A man who is 200 cm tall has no standard proportions.
Bespoke means patterning based on posture, shoulder slope, arm rotation and balance
Each pattern is unique, adapted to the body and fabric choice
Proper proportion ensures both comfort and presence
A good dinner jacket doesn’t wear the man, the man wears the jacket, effortlessly.
Craft, without noise
As a tailor, these are the projects that matter. No gimmicks, no spectacle — just quiet excellence. Like a chef who works in silence, but with deep knowledge.
That is how real craftsmanship works. That is how quiet luxury is created.
Who is this combination for?
For men who understand that style is in the details, in calmness, in preparation. Who don’t want to worry in the moment, because they’ve thought about it beforehand.
No more dress code anxiety
Invited to a black tie dinner? Then it’s too late to start questioning fabric or fit. Preparation means having something ready in the wardrobe that fits — in every sense of the word.
A quiet consultation is all it takes
Curious what a combination like this could look like for you? All it takes is a conversation. We’ll discuss style, fabric, fit and function — and make sure you’re ready, without hesitation.
— Jean-Paul Samson
White-Tie Outfit for a Freemason Debuting at the Wiener Ball
For a Thai gentleman making his debut at the Wiener Ball in Vienna, we created a fully bespoke three-piece suit made to measure. A commission that demanded precision at every level, because the Wiener Ball is not just any gala evening. It is one of the most formal and most iconic balls in the world, where the dress code is taken seriously and every detail counts.