Functional in use, stylish
in appearance
A jacket for everyday wear, crafted with intention.
Tweed, Technique and Textiles: A Bespoke Jacket Drawn From Three Tailoring Traditions
When people think of a tweed jacket, they often think of England. But this bespoke piece is not a reproduction of a British classic. It is the result of a deliberate translation of tradition into a contemporary, wearable solution — shaped through the Bespoke Tailoring method we use at De Oost.
Combining English fabrics, Italian techniques and influences from around the world is not a style statement, but a natural outcome of our core principle: creating the best possible garment for the specific client in front of us. Every choice has a purpose. Every technique has a reason.
The Fabric: Glen Hunt Estate Tweed by Bateman Ogden
For this jacket, we selected a tweed from the Glen Hunt Estate Tweed collection by the Yorkshire mill Bateman Ogden. This cloth embodies tradition, yet was chosen for its functional qualities, which are essential for how the client intended to wear the piece.
Tweed fabrics like this were originally designed for outdoor life: protection against weather, wind and heavy use. The yarns are purposefully heathered for visual depth, the weave is robust, and the weight (approx. 500g) provides structure without stiffness. Ideal for a garment worn in motion — commuting, traveling, or even cycling. Working with checked fabrics always brings its own unique challenges.
In bespoke tailoring, fabric choice goes far beyond colour or pattern. It is about how a cloth forms, drapes and lives with the wearer. That requires experience, insight and a collaborative process.
Colour and Character of the Tweed
This cloth is more than functional; its colour palette defines the character of the jacket. The base is a rich mix of brown and olive green in a herringbone weave, giving the cloth a natural, earthy tone. It aligns with the classic British countryside aesthetic, yet retains a refined presence suitable for urban settings.
The overcheck in red, blue and yellow adds subtle layers of depth. It is not loud or overpowering — just present enough to enrich the cloth.
Red adds warmth
Blue cools and balances the palette
Yellow adds energy without drawing attention
This thoughtful mix allows effortless pairing with warm and cool tones in shirts, knitwear or accessories.
It is a cloth that expresses both calm and complexity, revealing new nuances the more it is worn — something off-the-rack garments rarely achieve.
Italian Shoulder, English Soul
Although the fabric is English, we chose a soft Italian shoulder construction — without padding or heavy structure. This technique provides comfort, natural movement and a silhouette free of rigid lines.
The result is a jacket with both structure and softness: classic in appearance, contemporary in feel.
The Lining: Indian Dupioni Silk
The inside of the jacket is partially lined with Dupioni silk — a fabric from India known for its lively texture and subtle sheen. The irregular slubs in the yarn give the material character and provide a fabric that is strong, breathable and refined.
This jacket is half-unlined: no lining in the back panel, but lining in the sides. This keeps it light, breathable and flexible — ideal for everyday wear.
Between Indoors and Outdoors: A Functional Hybrid
This jacket is designed as an “in-between” garment: wearable as a lightweight outer jacket in spring or autumn, but just as suitable as a tweed sport coat paired with jeans or chinos.
Perfect for clients who want to dress well without wearing a full suit every day. It brings together style, comfort and durability in one versatile piece.
Design and Style Details: Considered and Purposeful
3‑button closure
Notch lapels without buttonhole or boutonnière
Patch pockets with flap and visible button
Patch breast pocket with button
Horn buttons with natural grain in shades of brown
3 sleeve buttons in a straight line
Handmade buttonholes
No rear vent for a clean back
Half‑unlined construction for breathability and lightness
Pattern, Fit and Philosophy
Like every piece at De Oost, this jacket is fully bespoke. The pattern is drafted based on the client’s individual proportions.
But bespoke is more than measurement. It is a search for balance: between form and comfort, technique and style, fabric and purpose.
We guide our clients in finding the right proportions between all these factors.
Our signature approach is what we call understated confidence: subtle yet powerful, with refinement for those who know what they are looking at.
How can we assist you?
At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring, the process does not begin with a measuring tape — it begins with a conversation.
Before we discuss fabrics or models, we want to understand why someone wants to commission a bespoke garment. Our intake form is designed to support that first step: a moment of reflection, collaboration and intention.
It is not an administrative form, but a tool to reach the essence of bespoke: personal attention, insight and craftsmanship.
Bespoke as a Method, Not a Style
What makes this jacket special is not only the fabric, the construction or the design — but the way it came into being: through dialogue, insight and craftsmanship.
At De Oost, the person comes first — not the style. From that, the design, the technique and the cloth follow. This is how we create garments that last a lifetime, both practically and aesthetically.
Would you like to explore fabrics, models or the bespoke process further?
Visit our blog or browse our portfolio pages.
