The classic bouclé (boo-clay) jacket was popularized by the iconic French fashion designer Coco Chanel decades ago, and the look is still on-trend today. Though the term has become synonymous with the elegance of a classic wool jacket, "bouclé" actually refers to material made with boucle yarn and not a specific type of garment as some people think.
Bouclé yarn contains loops that range in size from large, loose curls to tight circlets. In fact, the word boucle is French and means "to curl." The larger the loops, the more texture the finished material will contain. Like other woven textiles, several colors can be used to create an endless variety of designs and patterns.
Material woven from bouclé yarn is used to make sweaters, jackets, accessories and wardrobe items in many styles. Today, boucle clothing is available in modern easy-care acrylics and blends as well as wool. Making boucle sweaters and jackets from lightweight materials such as acrylic gives them more versatility-boucle is no longer limited to the fall and winter wardrobe.
What is a loden coat?
A loden coat is a long overcoat traditionally made from tightly woven and felted wool known as loden. Due to its specific finishing process, the fabric becomes naturally wind-resistant, water-repellent thanks to lanolin, and exceptionally durable. The cut is generous, allowing freedom of movement around the shoulders and back, often featuring a back pleat or cape-like shoulder construction. It is a coat born from function, not fashion, and that is precisely what gives the loden coat its understated, almost academic presence.
Origins and history of the loden coat
The loden coat originates from the Alpine regions of Austria and Southern Germany. Shepherds, hunters and landowners relied on this heavy wool coat to withstand rain, wind and cold. Later, it was adopted by the European hunting aristocracy and estate owners as part of their countryside attire during hunting weekends and outdoor gatherings.
From practical garment to discreet luxury
While other coats evolved towards decorative or fashionable expressions, the loden coat stayed true to its roots. Even when refined by noble tailoring houses, it retained its core values: function, material and silence. No shine, no theatrical details – just a coat made to work.
Caccioppoli’s New Spring and Summer Fabrics – Light Elegance from Naples for Warm Days
For those who wish to dress with care and style even during spring and summer, the choice of fabric is crucial. In these seasons, the balance in the wardrobe shifts: breathability, lightness, and comfort become more important—without compromising on appearance or refinement. It is precisely in that space that the new spring and summer fabric collection from Caccioppoli Napoli truly excels.
When planning a wedding, it’s all about finding the perfect balance between style and comfort. This applies not only to the venue and decor but certainly to your wedding suit. For spring or summer weddings, many grooms opt for light, breathable fabrics that are both elegant and comfortable. A popular choice here is linen or wool-linen-silk blends from leading Italian mills like Fratelli Tallia di Delfino.
We are proud to welcome Alfred Brown (Worsted Mills) Ltd to our collection of exclusive fabrics. This British brand is renowned for its exceptional quality and rich history, dating back to 1915. Discover why Alfred Brown is an essential choice for top-tier bespoke tailoring.
Flannel has regained immense popularity in recent years in the world of bespoke tailoring, whether for a suit, trousers, or a jacket. In the following blog post, we’ll explain why flannel is such a great choice.
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The types of shirting weaves used for bespoke shirts
Here we provide an overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in bespoke tailored shirts for both man and woman. By understanding what the different weaves mean for a fabric you can be sure to find the ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.
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What is Herringbone Cloth?
If you are looking for a proper business or city suit, think about having your garments tailored with the Herringbone fabrics available at De Oost. Then again if you are looking for a more heavy outdoor Tweed suit these are offered too in Herringbone. Technically Herringbone is not really a fabric, it is a method of weaving a fabric. Herringbone is a twill-weave with threads running alternately to left and right to form an inverted -V design that could be construed as the bones of a fish.
Produced from Patagonian merino wool, this collection is a must-have for those who demand quality, performance and comfort from their fabric
A region of the South American continent, Patagonia is a sparsely populated area unspoilt by humankind. Its earthy and unpolluted environment provides nutritional vegetation and an abundance of fresh water for its native wildlife to thrive. It also provides the best grazing conditions for raising some of the world’s finest merino sheep.
A good lining is important for a jacket or blazer for several reasons:
Comfort: The lining helpsto prevent the outer fabric of the jacket or blazer from rubbing against the skin, which can cause irritation and discomfort. The lining can also provide an additional layer of insulation, keeping the wearer warm and comfortable.
Durability: A good lining can help to prolong the life of a jacket or blazer by protecting the outer fabric from wear and tear. The lining can also prevent the fabric from stretching or losing its shape over time.
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Selecting the correct fabric for your suit or garment is an interesting activity and a big part of the whole experience of bespoke tailoring and having a clothes tailor made
When you ask yourself the right questions, it gets easier to make decisions in selecting the right fabric for you.
The list below has a number of pointers to have in consideration to decide the right direction you want to go and which points are important to you.
There are several reasons why British fabrics are commonly used for suits and jackets:
Quality: British fabrics are renowned for their quality and durability. They are often made using traditional methods, which can result in a superior product that lasts longer than cheaper, mass-produced fabrics.
Heritage: The British textile industry has a long and proud history, dating back centuries. Many of the mills that produce British fabrics have been in operation for generations,
There are several reasons why Italian fabrics are commonly used for suits and jackets:
Style: Italian fabrics are known for their high style and fashion-forward designs. They are often used in high-end fashion and luxury brands and are favored by those who value cutting-edge fashion.
Quality: Italian fabrics are often made using high-quality materials and manufacturing processes, resulting in a superior product that lasts longer than cheaper, mass-produced fabrics.
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The Striped Suit: A timeless classic
Of all men’s suitings, none has ever matched the glamour and popularity of the striped suit. At one time or another in the thirties, the striped suit probably graced every pair of male shoulders, from the humble to the most famous, from the unemployed to the chairman of the board.
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The Glen Plaid: more than just a check or pattern
While the Victorian era entertained tartans and the turn of the century hosted checks, it wasn’t until the 1920s that plaid clothing revolutionized the rules of urban style, following the English trend in which “country” began to impinge upon “town” in matters of male dress. Although some checks like the houndstooth enjoyed a distinguished career, none would become as enduringly stylish as the Glen Plaid.
Crispaire first made its debut over 30 years ago and is still very much in demand
Before the advancement of technical yarns and high-twist alternatives, Crispaire was one of the first qualities developed for the purpose of business travel. Its coarse yarn count, traditional plain weave structure and unrefined handle produce a cloth that is full bodied, durable and bounces back into shape effortlessly when crumpled.
Airesco is a new collection of 3 and 4 ply fabrics woven from a plain weave construction and available in a variety of weights
The relationship between yarn and construction produces a unique fabric very different in character to most other fabrics in the Holland & Sherry collection, whilst the soft contrasting colours produce a palette of classic blues, traditional greys and contemporary reds, greens and aubergine.
I got a bit excited after receiving word through the network that this is a new collection coming soon. Looks like another beauty to work with.
AIRESCO HS 2132 280-440gm 8.5-14oz by Holland and Sherry.
3 & 4 PLY WOOL WORSTED SUITINGS
Airesco is a new collection of 3 and 4 ply fabrics woven from a plain weave construction and available in a variety of weights.
Up to recently Flannel was referred to as old fashioned, something your grandfather would wear
At this moment we see a complete revival of this full bodied cloth. The classic grey and blues for the business occasions and classic jacket and the more dashing designs for waistcoats and suits for winter weddings
Linings are one of the ingredients in regards of performance and style that can really influence both
Think temperature, drape and touch when wearing your jacket. With the right color and style between suiting and lining a personality is added. Skulls are very popular, don’t ask me why.
The classic bouclé (boo-clay) jacket was popularized by the iconic French fashion designer Coco Chanel decades ago, and the look is still on-trend today.
Though the term has become synonymous with the elegance of a classic wool jacket, "bouclé" actually refers to material made with boucle yarn and not a specific type of garment as some people think.
Nowadays so called Made in Italy fabrics are available everywhere. But what is actually a true and really valuable fabric to have your suit or jackets tailored the bespoke way? Earlier this year we got a visit from Amadeo from Drago presenting his new collections.
Tweed is the generic name for a very wide variety of stubbly coarse woollen cloths
Typically of multi coloured carded yarns and twill construction. Tweed clothing is a popular form of leisure wear, it can be tailored into suits or coats used for hunting, coursing or other equestrian and outdoor activities. In a lighter weight, tweed is also used for dresses. Tweeds are an icon of traditional Irish and British country clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear, due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable, are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in both Ireland and the United Kingdom.
Pinhead, also known as pin-dot or nailhead is similar to the birdseye pattern, but smaller
It is a worsted wool suiting with a twill weave covered with small dots, that look like they have been hammered in with nails or pins. It has the appearance of tiny white or light coloured dots appearing in rows both vertically and horizontally. The fabric can hold a sharp crease, which makes it exceptionally well wearable, but also a good fabric to work with for the tailoring process. It is inclined to shine with wear.
The West Yorkshire town of Huddersfield is situated at the convergence of the rivers Colne and Holme. Inhabitants of these river valleys discovered that the water – which flows from the Millstone Grit Pennine hills – gave excellent results for the washing of raw wool.
And so the wool textile industry was born. The industry was traditionally cottage based, with spinning and weaving often taking place in the same dwelling. Many of the workers operated from smallholdings, supplementing their income with the manufacturing of wool textiles. The finished cloth they produced was then sold through merchants who regularly attended the town’s Cloth Hall.
When having a suit or actually whatever garment tailored, the cloth – fabric – material will have a great effect on many parts
So proper preparation literally protects from ‘piss-poor’ performance, assuming that you want the garment to add value to your appearance. But where to start if you never picked a cloth from a swatch book called a bunch?
Then first look, or ask us, what cloth has those properties? It could be for example Cashmere. Okay, that is 1 step. So step 2 is to have a look and feel at such a cloth. For our Amsterdam based clients it is most convenient to just visit us or make an appointment. No obligations if you need further advice/guidance.
In this series on the diverse examples of suiting fabrics, weaves and their designs, we have already discussed the Chalk-, Pin- and Pin Dot Stripe, but the Morning Stripe on which we will elaborate now, is such a special design on its own we had to write a separate blog to give as much reference.
A guide on how to choose a business suit
"You never get a second chance to make a first impression". It's an old adage because it is undeniably true. It is therefore imperative that to succeed in business it makes sense to wear great looking business suits.
As the Dutch say: “The summer is standing in front of the door”. Summer is coming. But, how do you dress sharply for the office, a wedding or any other social event during the hot summer season? What should you look for in order to appear stylish, professional and appropriate during the summer?
What to look for in a summer suit
The most important features in a summer suit are the fabric and weave, the construction of the jacket and the color of the suit.
Whipcord cloth is very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced
It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times the back is napped for warmth. It is called whipcord because it simulates the lash of a whip. Whipcord is often used for topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, equestrian and other sportswear.
Super 150s: The Story Behind the Fabric
Why a Super 150s suit is not what you think - and how to make the right choice for your professional life
Laurens-Jan's Choice: Two Suits, Two Worlds
Laurens-Jan works at Optiver, one of the world's leading high-frequency trading and market making firms. In his role, everything revolves around client contact - meetings with institutional investors, dinners with traders, moments when millions of euros in decisions are made about futures and options.
In that world, trust is everything. And trust begins in those first three seconds when you enter a room.