As the Dutch say: “The summer is standing in front of the door”. Summer is coming. But, how do you dress sharply for the office, a wedding or any other social event during the hot summer season? What should you look for in order to appear stylish, professional and appropriate during the summer?
What to look for in a summer suit
The most important features in a summer suit are the fabric and weave, the construction of the jacket and the color of the suit.
Summer suit fabrics
For summer suits there are a multiple of fabrics and weaves to choose from. The most popular fabrics for summer suits are linen, wool, mohair, cotton and silk. Ofcourse you can also opt for a blend of these fabrics.
Linen
Linen is a classic material for summer and it is a very popular fabric for summer suits because it’s strong, durable and light weight. Linen has a visible weave and great natural texture. Unfortunately, it also wrinkles very easy. So if you will be wearing the suit to the office, it is better to use a linen blend that also contains cotton or wool. That way you have less wrinkling, but you keep the nice summer look of linen.
Wool
There are a lot of light weight wools that are perfect for summer suits, like fresco or tropical worsted wool.
Fresco
The word fresco is derived from the word “affresco”, which translates to “fresh” and that’s exactly how a fresco suit will make you feel. This fabric consists of a multiple yarn, high-twisted wool with an open weave allowing the fabric to be very airy, yet quite durable. This fabric is designed specifically with summer in mind, and although the open weave allows for maximum air flow, the crisp feel and look of the fabric allows this suit to look extremely elegant and refined. Lightweight wools such as this work better than cotton or linen because they wick away – not absorb – sweat.
Tropical worsted wool
This is an open weave worsted wool fabric. It is generally softer than fresco, but also not as breathable. Overall it is a good choice, but if you want increased airflow you will be better off with fresco.
Mohair
Apart from eveningwear, mohair is also popular for hot climates. Unlike linen or cotton, it always looks crisp yet due to it’s light weight and open weave, it wears rather cool. Mohair fabric will remain practically wrinkle free and drape well. It is nearly impossible to get a mohair fabric to wrinkle! Mohair is very durable, dirt resistant and insulating. However, a 100% mohair suit would be very expensive and also uncomfortable to wear, due to its roughness. Mohair is therefore often blended with wool.
Cotton
The cotton suit is one of the most versatile choices, as it allows you to have a refined yet casual look that is extremely summer-friendly. Cotton is stiffer than wool suiting, but it is also cooler.
Seersucker
Seersucker is a unique cotton fabric which is distinguised by its signature striped, crinkled surface and strategic puckering.
Chambray or cambric
Chambray is a lightweight cotton fabric that is slightly glossy, very comfortable and perfect for summer. The fabric is durable and sturdy, but simultaneously flows as you move and is soft to the touch.
Silk
No fabric is lighter in weight than silk. Silk is more luxurious to the touch than cotton, resists wrinkling better than linen and drapes with more fluidity than worsted wool. However, silk is less durable, doesn’t breath as well as linen and shows water or sweat marks. For those reasons you rarely see a 100% silk suit. Typically it’s blended with wool or cotton.
Construction of the suit
The second thing to mind, regarding summer suits, is the jacket construction. Generally speaking, the less fabric and lining, the cooler it will wear. Natural fibers like linen, cotton and wool breath, but this breathability is obstructed by the satin lining, making even light-weight jackets wear much warmer in the summer. For more airflow you should therefore opt for a half lined or an unstructured jacket.
Half lined
Half-lined jackets usually have lining across the upper half of the back and down the sides of the jacket, but not on the lower part of the back.
Unstructured
Some jackets are unlined/unstructured. In this case, the inside will be finished in the same material as the outside. Since a lining hides some seams, an unlined jacket typically requires more professional finishing, which increases the cost.
Colour
The most important thing to keep in mind with the color of a summer suit is that dark colors will absorb heat, while light colors will reflect heat. Summer is perfect to introduce color, vibrancy and boldness into your wardrobe.
Epilogue
Whatever you are looking for in a summer suit, we will love to be of assistance to help you find the perfect fabric, fit and color(s) that will make you feel fantastic and ready for the summer season!
Super 150s: The Story Behind the Fabric
Why a Super 150s suit is not what you think - and how to make the right choice for your professional life
Laurens-Jan's Choice: Two Suits, Two Worlds
Laurens-Jan works at Optiver, one of the world's leading high-frequency trading and market making firms. In his role, everything revolves around client contact - meetings with institutional investors, dinners with traders, moments when millions of euros in decisions are made about futures and options.
In that world, trust is everything. And trust begins in those first three seconds when you enter a room.
"My clients work with the most sophisticated financial instruments. They expect precision, reliability, professionalism at the highest level. If I didn't look like I understand that, why would they trust me with their portfolio?"
But here comes the challenge: in the world of equities and futures trading, everything happens fast. Meetings follow one another. You jump from office to restaurant to client dinner. Your suit must perform without you constantly thinking about it. It must be ready for action, always.
"I can't think every morning about whether my suit is going to hold up today. It just has to work. Think of it like silverware - it should be of such quality that you simply use it, without worry, and it remains perfect for years."
That's why he didn't choose one suit, but two very different Super 150s suits. Luxury that is reliable. Softness and durability. The best of both worlds.
What is a loden coat?
A loden coat is a long overcoat traditionally made from tightly woven and felted wool known as loden. Due to its specific finishing process, the fabric becomes naturally wind-resistant, water-repellent thanks to lanolin, and exceptionally durable. The cut is generous, allowing freedom of movement around the shoulders and back, often featuring a back pleat or cape-like shoulder construction. It is a coat born from function, not fashion, and that is precisely what gives the loden coat its understated, almost academic presence.
Origins and history of the loden coat
The loden coat originates from the Alpine regions of Austria and Southern Germany. Shepherds, hunters and landowners relied on this heavy wool coat to withstand rain, wind and cold. Later, it was adopted by the European hunting aristocracy and estate owners as part of their countryside attire during hunting weekends and outdoor gatherings.
From practical garment to discreet luxury
While other coats evolved towards decorative or fashionable expressions, the loden coat stayed true to its roots. Even when refined by noble tailoring houses, it retained its core values: function, material and silence. No shine, no theatrical details – just a coat made to work.
More than appearance — an inner practice
Bespoke tailoring is not just an external phenomenon. Those who truly engage in the process quickly sense that it touches something deeper. Not the image you project, but how you inhabit your body and sense your own identity. Many spiritual and philosophical traditions touch exactly on this point. In this article, we explore how those teachings resonate with the world of tailoring.
Caccioppoli’s New Spring and Summer Fabrics – Light Elegance from Naples for Warm Days
For those who wish to dress with care and style even during spring and summer, the choice of fabric is crucial. In these seasons, the balance in the wardrobe shifts: breathability, lightness, and comfort become more important—without compromising on appearance or refinement. It is precisely in that space that the new spring and summer fabric collection from Caccioppoli Napoli truly excels.
When planning a wedding, it’s all about finding the perfect balance between style and comfort. This applies not only to the venue and decor but certainly to your wedding suit. For spring or summer weddings, many grooms opt for light, breathable fabrics that are both elegant and comfortable. A popular choice here is linen or wool-linen-silk blends from leading Italian mills like Fratelli Tallia di Delfino.
For a gentleman attending a wedding who wanted to appear appropriately dressed and full of confidence, we designed a unique dinner jacket. Traditional tuxedos and dinner jackets did not appeal to him, and he was looking for something special that he could continue to wear beyond the wedding.
We are proud to welcome Alfred Brown (Worsted Mills) Ltd to our collection of exclusive fabrics. This British brand is renowned for its exceptional quality and rich history, dating back to 1915. Discover why Alfred Brown is an essential choice for top-tier bespoke tailoring.
What Are Super Wool Numbers?
Super numbers refer to the fineness of the wool used in the fabric. The wool is measured in microns—its diameter determines the Super rating. A Super 100 fabric contains wool fibers with a diameter of about 18.5 microns, while a Super 150 fabric uses even finer fibers, around 16 microns. The higher the number, the finer the wool, and thus the softer and smoother the fabric feels.
Note: Super numbers don’t measure the weight of the fabric but the fineness of the wool fibers.
The Perfect Bespoke Suit for a Lawyer on the Zuidas
In the legal profession, clothing is more than just self-expression — it's a way to convey professionalism and respect. This bespoke dark blue suit made from Holland & Sherry's Snowy River Collection is designed for a lawyer working on the Zuidas, where professionalism and flexibility are essential. This suit strikes the perfect balance between formality and versatility, making it ideal for both business meetings and more relaxed moments.
Flannel has regained immense popularity in recent years in the world of bespoke tailoring, whether for a suit, trousers, or a jacket. In the following blog post, we’ll explain why flannel is such a great choice.
When it comes to custom or bespoke suits, the details truly make a difference. One of the most notable features that set custom suits apart from off-the-rack options is the armhole construction. A higher and smaller armhole is a hallmark of superior tailoring. But why is this the case?
In this post, we'll explore the reasons behind this design choice and how it enhances both the fit and comfort of custom-made suits.
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Introduction
When it comes to style and appearance, there’s nothing quite like a bespoke suit. The process of having a suit tailored to your exact measurements, preferences, and lifestyle is a unique journey that goes far beyond simply purchasing a garment. At our bespoke tailoring house, we believe in the transformative power of a well-fitted suit and the importance of the journey we take together with our clients.
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Informal Occasions with a Double-Breasted Suit
Wearing a Double-Breasted suit for casual occasions can be just as stylish as it is for formal occasions. Informal occasions with a Double-Breasted suit can range from a family gathering to a casual dinner with friends. By experimenting with different combinations and accessories you can always put together a suitable and stylish outfit.
For example, choose to combine a Double-Breasted suit with loafers for a chic, yet comfortable look. Or go for a Double-Breasted suit with a t-shirt to get a more relaxed look. The most important thing is that you feel comfortable and confident in what you wear.
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Elevating a suit jacket from a standard off-the-rack piece to a garment that exudes custom luxury can be accomplished with the addition of working buttonholes, often referred to as "surgeon's cuffs".
This feature allows the sleeves to be unbuttoned, much like a surgeon's coat, which not only adds a touch of elegance but also showcases the skill of a master tailor and good taste.
This customisation adds both functionality and a clear indicator of sartorial expertise, especially when applied to a premium Isaia Jacket constructed from opulent Dormeuil Guanashina fabric.
It is a simple but splendid way to elevate a garment from good to great.
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Introduction
Today, I'm eager to share with you the intricate process involved in crafting bespoke suits for a special niche within our bespoke tailor's workshop: conductors and orchestra attire.
The Challenge of Orchestra Attire
Creating orchestra attire presents unique challenges. This clothing must blend the classic elegance of a bespoke suit with the functionality of sport and workwear. Every detail, from the construction method to sizing and material choice, is meticulously considered and tailored to meet the specific needs of our clients.
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Tailored to Perfection: The Before & After of Suit Jacket Shoulder Resizing
At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring, we specialize in the precise art of suit jacket alterations, ensuring every client enjoys the comfort and confidence that comes with a perfectly fitted shoulder line. Our latest project showcases the transformative power of expert shoulder resizing—a service highly sought after by those who understand that the fit of a suit jacket can make or break its look.
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At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring, we recognize that a suit is much more than just part of a clothing style; it's an expression of your personality and a testament to your professionalism. This is beautifully exemplified in the custom-tailored suit of Mr. 'Jansen', a prominent accountant and executive at Ernst & Young, based in the east of the Netherlands.
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A Suit that Grows with You: The Story of Custom Tailoring for a Dynamic Mortage Advisor
In the financial advisory world, where first impressions and professionalism are key, clothing plays a crucial role. This is the story of an entrepreneur/mortgage advisor of Moroccan origin, owner of a consultancy firm, in search of the perfect work suit.
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The types of shirting weaves used for bespoke shirts
Here we provide an overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in bespoke tailored shirts for both man and woman. By understanding what the different weaves mean for a fabric you can be sure to find the ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.
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What is Herringbone Cloth?
If you are looking for a proper business or city suit, think about having your garments tailored with the Herringbone fabrics available at De Oost. Then again if you are looking for a more heavy outdoor Tweed suit these are offered too in Herringbone. Technically Herringbone is not really a fabric, it is a method of weaving a fabric. Herringbone is a twill-weave with threads running alternately to left and right to form an inverted -V design that could be construed as the bones of a fish.
A question we often get is how to fold your trousers so they come out of the suit case uncreased?
That is actually easy, have a look in this video
A question we often get is how to fold your trousers so the fold stays straight?
Actually a very simple but important matter if you want your trousers to look sharp.
I will show you how in this video.
Produced from Patagonian merino wool, this collection is a must-have for those who demand quality, performance and comfort from their fabric
A region of the South American continent, Patagonia is a sparsely populated area unspoilt by humankind. Its earthy and unpolluted environment provides nutritional vegetation and an abundance of fresh water for its native wildlife to thrive. It also provides the best grazing conditions for raising some of the world’s finest merino sheep.
A good lining is important for a jacket or blazer for several reasons:
Comfort: The lining helpsto prevent the outer fabric of the jacket or blazer from rubbing against the skin, which can cause irritation and discomfort. The lining can also provide an additional layer of insulation, keeping the wearer warm and comfortable.
Durability: A good lining can help to prolong the life of a jacket or blazer by protecting the outer fabric from wear and tear. The lining can also prevent the fabric from stretching or losing its shape over time.
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Selecting the correct fabric for your suit or garment is an interesting activity and a big part of the whole experience of bespoke tailoring and having a clothes tailor made
When you ask yourself the right questions, it gets easier to make decisions in selecting the right fabric for you.
The list below has a number of pointers to have in consideration to decide the right direction you want to go and which points are important to you.
There are several reasons why British fabrics are commonly used for suits and jackets:
Quality: British fabrics are renowned for their quality and durability. They are often made using traditional methods, which can result in a superior product that lasts longer than cheaper, mass-produced fabrics.
Heritage: The British textile industry has a long and proud history, dating back centuries. Many of the mills that produce British fabrics have been in operation for generations,
There are several reasons why Italian fabrics are commonly used for suits and jackets:
Style: Italian fabrics are known for their high style and fashion-forward designs. They are often used in high-end fashion and luxury brands and are favored by those who value cutting-edge fashion.
Quality: Italian fabrics are often made using high-quality materials and manufacturing processes, resulting in a superior product that lasts longer than cheaper, mass-produced fabrics.
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The Striped Suit: A timeless classic
Of all men’s suitings, none has ever matched the glamour and popularity of the striped suit. At one time or another in the thirties, the striped suit probably graced every pair of male shoulders, from the humble to the most famous, from the unemployed to the chairman of the board.
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The Glen Plaid: more than just a check or pattern
While the Victorian era entertained tartans and the turn of the century hosted checks, it wasn’t until the 1920s that plaid clothing revolutionized the rules of urban style, following the English trend in which “country” began to impinge upon “town” in matters of male dress. Although some checks like the houndstooth enjoyed a distinguished career, none would become as enduringly stylish as the Glen Plaid.