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A suit with urgency and a clear message

We received an unexpected call from Germany from a former client. Could we make a suit at short notice within 14 days for a good friend? No standard request, no standard client, and certainly no standard suit.

The wearer: a young, exceptionally successful Israeli IT entrepreneur who had sold his company to HP and was now invited to Sharjah (UAE) to help build the digital infrastructure of the future, at the table with the Emir.

He normally never wears a suit. Alternative clothing, visibly tattooed, piercings, someone who naturally stands outside the norm. That's precisely why this suit couldn't be a uniform, but had to be an instrument: formal enough for a head of state, distinctive enough to preserve his personality.

His biggest obstacle wasn't the deadline, but his doubt. He felt precisely that this moment required something special, but he found it difficult to choose himself:

How do you stay yourself when you normally never wear a suit? How do you remain credible before an Emir without surrendering your identity? How do you avoid feeling costumed rather than empowered?

straight to: The Model - Specifications - The Fabric - The Colour - Gallery - History - Models with Shawl Collars - FAQ

How we approached this

Instead of presenting him with choices, we started by listening. We first got a clear picture of who he is, how he moves, how he thinks, and how he wants to be seen at that table.

From there, we guided him step by step towards a clear direction:

Colour as bridge: We steered him away from standard navy blue and together arrived at petrol blue, recognisably professional but with much more character and depth.

Model as statement: Where a classic notch lapel would make him feel costumed, we deliberately chose a shawl collar: more fluid, more expressive, and less conventional.

Fabric as comfort and authority: Because heat plays a major role in Sharjah, we selected a Super 140's wool of 280 grams from the Royal Mile collection by Holland & Sherry, luxurious in appearance, light and breathable in use.

What began as uncertainty ended in conviction. Not because we imposed a style on him, but because we helped him translate his own style into a suit that works in a world of power and protocol.

Model & Specifications

• Fabric: Super 140's wool — Holland & Sherry, Royal Mile

• Weight: 280 grams Colour: Petrol blue

• Jacket model: Shawl collar

Price:

In this fabric € 1799,-

FABRIC

Super 140's — Royal Mile by Holland & Sherry

Super 140's refers to the ultra-fine fibre of the wool. The finer the fibre, the softer, more supple and more luxurious the fabric feels, and the more elegantly it drapes.

The Royal Mile collection by Holland & Sherry is known for deep, rich colours, refined textures, exceptional drape, and a balance between comfort and formality.

For this project, we chose 280 grams, a deliberate choice in a warm climate. Heavy enough for a beautiful, sculptural drape, but light and breathable enough to remain comfortable in Sharjah.

Who is this fabric suitable for?

Men who want to feel quality, not just see it. Those who value comfort in warm conditions. Those who want a timeless look, not a fashion trend. Those who want a suit that moves with the body.

COLOUR

Why petrol blue?

Petrol blue borders on classic blue but has considerably more depth and expression. It is recognisably professional but never safe. In bright light, it appears clear and modern; in indoor light, it becomes richer and darker, almost inky.

Historically, blue stands for trust, intellect, and leadership. Petrol adds something distinctive: a subtle green undertone that evokes associations with innovation, technology, and creativity, precisely fitting for someone from the IT world. For this client, petrol blue proved the perfect balance: familiar enough to be taken seriously, distinctive enough to show his character. Not a costume, but a statement.

What petrol blue evokes in people:

Confident without being harsh. Modern without becoming trend-sensitive. Intellectual and thoughtful. Charismatic yet controlled.

The history of the shawl collar

The shawl collar finds its origins in the 19th century and was originally introduced on the smoking jacket, a garment that gentlemen wore indoors for smoking or relaxation. The rounded, continuous collar without a break or point was designed for comfort and style. Unlike the classic notch or peak lapels, the shawl collar looks softer and more fluid, which contributed to the informal, domestic appearance of the garment.

Over time, the shawl collar moved from the smoking room to formal menswear. It became a fixed component of the dinner jacket (tuxedo) and was often executed in silk or satin for extra contrast. The rounded shape remained synonymous with evening wear and elegance but was also adopted in casual jackets, waistcoats, and knitwear.

Use and style today

Today, the shawl collar is applied in both formal and more casual contexts. In a bespoke jacket, it offers a distinctive style statement: less business-like than a notch lapel, but more refined than a sporty look. The shape accentuates the neckline and works particularly well in combination with a turtleneck, a shirt without tie, or even with a T-shirt, depending on the fabric choice and styling.

If you choose a shawl collar, you choose not only elegance but also individuality. Especially in combination with a special fabric, playful details, or an unusual lining, the jacket gains character without being loud.

For a gentleman attending a wedding who wanted to appear appropriately dressed and full of confidence, we designed a unique dinner jacket. Traditional tuxedos and dinner jackets did not appeal to him, and he was looking for something special that he could continue to wear beyond the wedding.

The inspiration came from a dinner jacket worn by actor Robert Downey Jr.—classic in cut but with an unconventional choice of material. Initially, we considered burgundy velvet or emerald green, but ultimately decided these colors would be too bold. The goal was a unique jacket that remains subtle: understated luxury.

The Royal Blue Shawl Collar Tuxedo is a refined creation crafted from 100% worsted merino wool weighing 370 grams, woven in a stylish herringbone pattern. The royal blue colour adds a touch of regal splendour, while the herringbone structure provides depth and texture to the fabric. This choice in material and colour effortlessly combines style with wearing comfort, allowing you to radiate on every occasion.

Ready for your bespoke suit?

1. Make an appointment: https://www.deoost.com/make-an-appointment

2. Free style Consultation (or general advice if needed): https://www.deoost.com/suit-advice-consultation

3. How we work: https://www.deoost.com/how-we-work-suit-tailoring

4. How we make a suit: https://www.deoost.com/blog/how-is-a-bespoke-suit-made

5. Discover more suits: https://www.deoost.com/suits-jackets-new-formal-business-casual-bespoke-tailored

6. Prices: https://www.deoost.com/prices-bespoke-suit-wedding-suit-shirt-ladies-men
   

Smaller budget?

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