Shoulders too big in your jacket: This is how the tailor ensures the perfect fit

The most important points in a well-fitting jacket

The basis of your jacket comes down to 4 points that are most important for a well-fitting jacket:

1. Whether the collar of the jacket fits properly on the neck or not.

2. That the shoulder of the jacket fits properly on your shoulder.

3. That the jacket follows the curve of the back well.

4. The sleeve length of the jacket falls at the right point, this is classically at the wrist bone for men.

In addition to these 4 points, how tight or roomy you want the jacket to be in the side seams or the sleeve width is a matter of taste.

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Making Working Buttonholes elevates a jacket from good to great

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Elevating a suit jacket from a standard off-the-rack piece to a garment that exudes custom luxury can be accomplished with the addition of working buttonholes, often referred to as "surgeon's cuffs".

This feature allows the sleeves to be unbuttoned, much like a surgeon's coat, which not only adds a touch of elegance but also showcases the skill of a master tailor and good taste.

This customisation adds both functionality and a clear indicator of sartorial expertise, especially when applied to a premium Isaia Jacket constructed from opulent Dormeuil Guanashina fabric.

It is a simple but splendid way to elevate a garment from good to great.

The steps to make working buttonholes

1. Planning and Measurement

Identify the Location: Decide on the placement of the buttonholes (typically four), spaced about 2.5 to 3 cm apart, starting around 2.5 cm from the bottom of the sleeve. This precision ensures that the customisation integrates seamlessly with the jacket's elegant design.

Mark the Buttonholes: Use fabric chalk or a marker to accurately mark where the buttonholes will be positioned, ensuring they are perfectly aligned and evenly spaced for a harmonious appearance.

2. Preparing the Buttonholes

Reinforce the Area: Iron a small piece of interfacing on the wrong side of the sleeve at the marked locations to give the fabric additional strength, a step that is particularly crucial when working with high-end materials like Dormeuil Guanashina.

Cutting the Buttonholes: Employ a sharp pair of scissors or a buttonhole cutter to make precise slits for each buttonhole, executing with care to maintain the integrity of the fabric.

3. Sewing the Buttonholes

Hand Sewing: This meticulous process involves using a buttonhole stitch to encase each slit neatly, an approach that demands a steady hand and an eye for detail, reflecting the tailor's adept skill.

Machine Sewing: For those with access to a sewing machine equipped with a buttonhole feature, select the appropriate size and stitch for the fabric. Follow the machine’s guidance carefully to ensure each buttonhole is crafted to perfection.

4. Finishing Touches

Sewing the Buttons: Position the custom-made fabric-covered buttons on the opposite sleeve placket, aligning them with the buttonholes. Hand-sew each button securely, an emblem of the garment's bespoke nature.

Tips for Success

Practice Makes Perfect: Especially when working with luxurious fabrics, it’s prudent to practise on similar material scraps to perfect the technique.

Select the Right Tools: A sharp buttonhole cutter is indispensable for clean cuts, and a buttonhole foot can greatly enhance sewing accuracy.

Patience is Key: The creation of working buttonholes on such a refined garment cannot be hurried. Dedicate the necessary time to each step for impeccable results.

What is the correct sleeve length for a jacket?

In our tailor's blog post about oversized shoulders in your jacket, we talked about which points are important for a good fit in your jacket.

As discussed in the previous article, the width of side seams does not have much to do with whether a jacket appears too large, this is purely a matter of taste.

One of the things that makes a suit look too big is a sleeve length that is too long. You often encounter this as a tailor and in this blog we will go into more depth.

How do you recognize sleeves that are too long?

As tailors, we often see that the sleeve length falls on the hand and sometimes even extends over the hand with ready-made jackets.
This ensures that the hand on the eye disappears.
The fit of the rest of the jacket does not match the sleeve length and this automatically makes the suit appear too large.

If you look at the example below you will see that the hand disappears on the left sleeve (see red arrow), which has not yet been pinned off. This gives the impression that the jacket does not seem to fit the rest in terms of fit.

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