History of Smoking Jackets

The smoking jacket has a rich history that dates back to the 19th century

Originally designed as a comfortable and stylish garment to be worn while smoking cigars or pipes, the smoking jacket became a staple of men's lounge attire. Here's a brief overview of its history:

1. Origins: The smoking jacket

Originated in the Victorian era, around the 1850s. During this time, smoking tobacco became a popular social activity, especially among men in affluent circles. The need for a garment that protected clothing from the odors of smoke and ash led to the creation of the smoking jacket.

2. Functionality

Smoking jackets were designed to be worn in the privacy of one's home or within exclusive social clubs while enjoying tobacco. They served a dual purpose: protecting the underlying clothing from smoke and providing a comfortable, leisurely garment for relaxation.

3. Design Features

Traditional smoking jackets were often made from luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk, or brocade. They featured distinctive attributes such as shawl collars, quilted lapels, and toggle fastenings. The use of rich materials and intricate details reflected the wearer's status and taste.

4. Rise in Popularity

Smoking jackets gained popularity throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, becoming synonymous with sophisticated and leisurely activities. They were often depicted in literature, art, and film, further solidifying their association with refined masculinity.

5. Evolution

Over time, smoking jackets evolved in style and design. While they were initially worn exclusively at home, by the mid-20th century, some variations became acceptable for more public settings, particularly in upscale social gatherings.

6. Contemporary Influence

Today, smoking jackets continue to influence modern formalwear, particularly in the design of evening jackets and tuxedos. While not as commonly worn for smoking purposes, their luxurious and distinctive style persists, making them a timeless symbol of elegance and sophistication.

In summary, the smoking jacket's history is rooted in the desire for a comfortable and stylish garment for smoking tobacco in private settings. Its legacy endures as a symbol of refined leisure and timeless elegance.

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The Tuxedo

A tuxedo trumps any other outfit any night, any occasion, any decade. It has yet to appear out of date

The point of a tuxedo is not just to dress up and look nice.  That is part of it, but only a part. The point is to commemorate a special occasion by wearing something special that you would not wear anywhere else. In this blog we will inform you on everything you need to know about tuxedos.

What is a ‘Tuxedo’?

Let us start with defining the Tuxedo. What separates the tuxedo from other suits? Traditionally tuxedos have satin facing on the lapels, buttons, pocket trim, and a satin side stripe down the leg of the trousers.  Suits don’t incorporate any satin and usually have either plastic buttons or buttons faced with the same fabric as the coat (aka self buttons.)  Some modern tuxedo options have minimized the use of satin to a thin satin trim on the lapels and a thin satin bead down the pant leg, but the primary difference between the two is that tuxedos have satin on them and suits do not.  Of course, to every rule there are exceptions.

In French, Dutch, Italian, German and other European languages, the term smoking indicates a tuxedo. The term smoking or smoking jacket however, denotes for Britons and Americans a robe de chambre, popularized by Playboy's Hugh Hefner. For Britons the more classical term to denote a tuxedo is a dinner jacket.

History of the Tuxedo

The Prince Edward version
In 1865 Edward VII (then the Prince of Wales) and Savile Row tailor Henry Poole & Co., which is still in business today, fit the prince for an ensemble that was more formal than a lounge suit, but not without the trimmings of a tailcoat. It was something the prince could wear in the dining room and informal settings. His highness commissioned it in blue with matching pants and the "dinner jacket", as the tuxedo was called back then, took off.

At this time, the jacket was usually black, shawl collared, and accompanied by white accessories. Most likely, the dinner jacket was brought to America in 1886 by millionaire James Brown Potter and his wife Cora, who were introduced to the Prince of Wales during a trip to Britain.

The prince sent Potter to be fitted for the popular new jacket and Potter later wore it to the Autumn Ball of a private country club in Tuxedo Park, New York. There, the American moniker of the suit was popularized. How it spread to the rest of the country is deeply steeped in folklore with many conflicting stories.

The Tuxedo Park version of the story

Many attribute the creation of the tuxedo this version of events, crediting young Griswold Lorillard, the son of Tuxedo Park developer and tobacco magnate Pierre Lorillard IV, with inventing the dinner jacket on a whim, after getting frustrated that his tails were interfering with sitting and dancing. In October 1886, at Tuxedo Park's Autumn Ball, an annual gala honoring debutantes, Griswold and a few of his friends emerged in tailless dress coats and scarlet satin vests. Their unconventional attire was enough to turn heads, not to mention ruffle the feathers of the old guard. Town Topics, the leading society magazine of the day—and the only major publication known to have recorded the incident at that time—compared the boys to "royal footmen," adding that they "ought to have been put in strait-jackets long ago." 

1900’s-1930’s

By the early 20th century, the dinner jacket had risen in popularity and was acceptable in formal situations. Black accessories and a peaked lapel were also de rigueur. By the 1930s, black-tie came roaring back, mostly unchanged since before the war. It was the de facto evening wear, relegating white-tie to special events. The midnight blue tux was all the rage, and in 1935, there were more mills churning out blue tuxedo wool than black tuxedo wool. The double-breasted tuxedo jacket variant — previously considered too informal — also exploded in popularity during this time. For warmer climates and seasons, the white tuxedo jacket (contrasted by black trousers) became an acceptable alternative.

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