3 roll 2 unlined jacket with a lot of 'Italian' details

This is a 3 roll 2 / three roll two jacket that we have just made that will be used as a show model in our studio at Bilderdijkstraat 179 in Amsterdam.

Sample jackets always help to inspire and visualize details. And this way you can do something useful with leftover materials.

This jacket is handmade with an unlined construction and many details that are often associated with Made in Italy

The method is unlined, there are many variants of this and in this piece the sleeves are lined and the seams on the inside of the front and back panels are finished with the lining.

This also ensures that they do not fray and the jacket remains beautiful for longer. The sleeve lining helps to make the jacket easy to put on.

For the shoulder we opted for a Spalla Camicia, so the sleeve is deployed like the sleeve of a shirt under the shoulder instead of against it.

The shoulder seam is made with a folded back seam. Just such an understated detail that is a point of recognition for people who appreciate sartorial handmade clothing.

This time we made the outside pockets curved, secretly stolen from our friend Luca Rubinacci, so to speak.

You also see pick stitching with a purple thread running over the lapel, panels, pockets and shoulder.

Hmmm, because the Mohair fabric is quite crisp, I think it is a bit too present, but even after 20 years in the business of making handmade suits, you continue to learn.

If you pay close attention, you will also see the 3 roll 2 style of the lapel. So an extra buttonhole that is not used, typical Napoli.

The fabric is a black Mohair from Holland & Sherry of 280 grams. Ideal for summer and wrinkle-free.

The inner pockets are made with a zipper so that you are protected against pickpockets while traveling.

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Business Casual suit style, how do you create this?

You've probably heard the term Business Casual before, but how do you create a business casual suit?

What exactly is a business casual suit?

In this video I explain this to you using such a suit that you can wear for business but also outside.

As far as I'm concerned, a business casual suit is a suit consisting of 3 parts that you can wear as 1 set. And also as separate parts, so the waistcoat and jacket, for example, on jeans.

This can be worn both for business and for any other occasion (we exclude swimming competitions and decent ones). These are examples of suits that we see as business casual.

The fabric is a characteristic of business casual suits.

Instead of being smooth, like most business suits, it has a woollier structure and often has more striking colours such as brown, red and green. Although blue and grey, as long as the fabric has body, are also good options.

You often end up with heavy weight fabrics such as Flannel and Tweed variants.

In addition to the fabric structure, you can also choose to let the pattern speak more in 1 or more parts of the suit. Think of checks, Tartans, but also fabrics such as Hopsack are doing well.

Since you cannot wear a suit with an outspoken fabric as often as when it is more subdued, a waistcoat with a striking fabric, colour and model can be a nice intermediate step.

Personally, I would just keep the model classic when it comes to the jacket and trousers, the waistcoat can be beautifully expressive with these types of fabrics. Think of a beautiful vintage double breasted model or simply start with a waistcoat with lapels and a fabric back.

It is better to look for beautiful artisanal finishes such as working buttonholes on the sleeves, beautiful buttons, hand-stitched details and on the trousers; you can think of a button closure, side buckles and buttons for suspenders.

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Custom-Tailored Suit Jacket: A Stripe Ahead in Fit, Quality, and Appearance

Every custom-tailored suit jacket has a factor that you don't see but is the core of the entire outfit(?)

This factor is the story of the customer around whom the jacket is designed and built. So, it's not about the associations communicated by a brand, as with branded clothing, but truly about your own standards and values.

What we mean is that our clients have a reason (their story) for having a suit jacket tailor-made and choose to express this through their clothing style.

Story Behind This Custom Suit Jacket

He just found this to be a cool suit to have but wanted it to be even more pronounced. So, a very flat motivation of 'I find this beautiful and want this', and thus a great assignment for us.

This customer has had many outfits tailor-made, like a Black Watch Tartan Blazer / Cashmere Doeskin Overcoat / Double-Breasted Navy Blazer, and always pushes the boundaries in terms of style and fabric. As a top specialist in his field, traveling the world to advise key figures in governments on strategic and military matters, he gets away with it.

And, to put it bluntly, he just doesn't care and gets a kick out of wearing this kind of clothing and acting the Dandy. Kind of like Winston Wolf from Pulp Fiction, he solves problems.

Let's take a closer look at this custom suit jacket with Blazer Stripe

Blazer Stripe Fabric

The most striking feature is, of course, the fabric. The Blazer Stripe fabric from Holland & Sherry in navy, red, and white makes a powerful statement. Made from super 120's worsted merino wool with 30% Teclana, this light fabric weighs only 230 grams / 7.5oz but retains durability and a beautiful drape.

The satin lining, subtly interwoven with both green and brown threads for a variable effect, offers refinement that perfectly complements the dandy's bold choices. A subtle nod to the military background, every aspect of this jacket tells a story.

Floating Canvas / Full Canvas Jacket

The jacket is entirely handmade with the highest level of craftsmanship, with a floating canvas of linen and horsehair (full canvas). This allows your lapels to roll nicely, the jacket is supple and shapes beautifully to the body. You can recognize this by folding the lapels, and then you see tiny hand stitches, a kind of bumps.

The Jacket's Shoulder

The shoulder with small pleats, known as Spalla Camicia, adds an Italian touch to the cut. A fine 'Italian' detail that falls into the category of Sprezzatura and helps evoke an appearance of high quality. One of those details that make a difference.

Buttonholes

The handmade, working buttonholes with 4 kissing buttons are an essential element of this custom-made creation. A typical feature of real artisanal custom clothing. Also known as a doctor's sleeve or surgeon's cuff.

Lapels

The extremely wide lapels (13 cm) add that extra dose of dandy flair.

Pockets

The patch pockets with wide piping and the matching breast pocket, a nod to the military history, underscore the unique look. Patch pockets were used to store rifle cartridges. They are sewn onto the jacket so you can easily put your hands in the pockets.

Fabric & Pattern

Aligned stripes are a sign of a pattern tailored to the customer's body where aesthetics are more important than fabric saving. An aligned stripe pattern creates a visually calming effect and is associated with clothing made at the highest level.

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