This is a 3 roll 2 / three roll two jacket that we have just made that will be used as a show model in our studio at Bilderdijkstraat 179 in Amsterdam.

Sample jackets always help to inspire and visualize details. And this way you can do something useful with leftover materials.

This jacket is handmade with an unlined construction and many details that are often associated with Made in Italy

The method is unlined, there are many variants of this and in this piece the sleeves are lined and the seams on the inside of the front and back panels are finished with the lining.

This also ensures that they do not fray and the jacket remains beautiful for longer. The sleeve lining helps to make the jacket easy to put on.

For the shoulder we opted for a Spalla Camicia, so the sleeve is deployed like the sleeve of a shirt under the shoulder instead of against it.

The shoulder seam is made with a folded back seam. Just such an understated detail that is a point of recognition for people who appreciate sartorial handmade clothing.

This time we made the outside pockets curved, secretly stolen from our friend Luca Rubinacci, so to speak.

You also see pick stitching with a purple thread running over the lapel, panels, pockets and shoulder.

Hmmm, because the Mohair fabric is quite crisp, I think it is a bit too present, but even after 20 years in the business of making handmade suits, you continue to learn.

If you pay close attention, you will also see the 3 roll 2 style of the lapel. So an extra buttonhole that is not used, typical Napoli.

The fabric is a black Mohair from Holland & Sherry of 280 grams. Ideal for summer and wrinkle-free.

The inner pockets are made with a zipper so that you are protected against pickpockets while traveling.

Three roll Two suits/jackets have a special place among fans of bespoke and sartorially made suits.

This is a bespoke 1920s / 1930s 3-piece , vintage variation on this. Consisting of a jacket, waistcoat with lapels and trousers.

The nice thing about this type of assignment is that it also challenges us and gives us a lot of fun.

When making a retro suit, the traditional method of making, fabrics and the model all play a role that reinforce each other.

The fabric for a 20s / 30s suit: A Wool Flannel 340 gram black and white puppy tooth fabric from Holland & Sherry was chosen. Also called Houndstooth or Pied de Poule fabric. A beautiful fabric for those who want that real vintage retro feeling when wearing, as the fabrics also come from those times and that is a must.

The suit model is a three roll two (3 roll 2) and is the ultimate for the sartorial enthusiast and gentleman. There are many details that exude the Roaring 20's, such as: Rope shoulders, wide lapels (11cm), Barchetta style chest pocket, handmade buttonholes and a haircloth interior.

The waistcoat is a nice addition that can be worn with or without the jacket. Made in the same flannel fabric in a double breasted model with lapels where the back is also made of fabric and of course with a bronzed buckle on the back.

The retro flannel trousers drape very well due to the weight of the fabric and are nice and warm to wear. The tailor-made trousers have buttons to wear with suspenders, buckles on the waistband (side pulls) and a wide waistband of 6 cm in line with the idea of this vintage 3-piece suit.