Herringbone Suiting Fabrics and Cloth

What is Herringbone?

If you are looking for a proper business or city suit, think about having your garments tailored with the Herringbone fabrics available at De Oost. Then again if you are looking for a more heavy outdoor Tweed suit these are offered too in Herringbone. Technically Herringbone is not really a fabric, it is a method of weaving a fabric. Herringbone is a twill-weave with threads running alternately to left and right to form an inverted -V design that could be construed as the bones of a fish. This is a popular style for suits and sport jackets. Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear. Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern. 

History of the Herringbone pattern

The use of the Herringbone pattern is not limited to the weaving of fabric. Some say the V-shaped pattern was developed around 500 B.C. during the Roman Empire as they developed an expansive world-class road system called the Viae Publicae. The basic principle for the construction of this super road – which allowed for accelerated communication and rapid transport of people and materials throughout the empire – was called Opus spicatum, or “spiked work”. It was discovered that this simple pattern of interlocking bricks creates an intensely durable and stable  geometric matrix, perfect for roadways and infrastructure. 

In fashion design these patterns are also often used symbolically to connect a modern garment to it’s historical predecessors, since patterns are like flags; they have the potential to evoke a sense of identity and place. The fact that herringbone’s roots are in Rome make it a no-brainer that plenty of suits, sportcoats, and blazers have been done up in the pattern.  The Herringbone pattern can be found in Celtic history too; horsehair herringbone cloth has been found in Ireland from around 600 B.C., which explains why it’s also a traditional choice for tweed. That being said let us start by showing you some of the tailored tweed herringbone garments by De Oost. Following with a selection of the herringbone business and city suits tailored for our clients.

Herringbone pattern often seen in Tweed fabrics

Tweed is popular for equestrian, hunting and other outdoor activities.  The smaller details of having a Herringbone pattern in your tweed tailored garments give one a fast and dynamic look while coarsing or horse riding. The herringbone pattern is vibrant and alive.

Herringbone popular with Business Suits

As is seen on our Business Suits page, many clients have chosen  to have their business suits tailored with an herringbone weave fabric. Today herringbone cloth can be found in just about any garment type, in an endless variety of sizes, scales, textures, weights, colors, blends, etc. It’s one if the easiest ways for a man to introduce pattern into his wardrobe, too, because it is  so subtle and monotone that you don’t really have to worry about it clashing with other patterns. 

Dress Wear with Herringbone pattern

In our collection of bespoke tailored tuxedos, tailcoats, morning coats, waistcoats, dress wear and formal wear, the herringbone pattern appears too.  One of our eye-catchers in the atelier of De Oost is a morning coat and waistcoat with a strong visible herringbone pattern.

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Tweed Jacket

Tweed is a beautiful material for the contemporary gentleman who likes to dress in style


We tailor beautiful jackets and sports coats from Tweed but also suits, waistcoats and trousers.

A jacket made from Tweed is the ideal all-rounder that combines style and comfort for the stylish dressed man.

Harris Tweed Jacket

The benefits of Tweed Jackets:

Tweed suits every occasion and style, from casual to semi-formal.
Tweed is strong, has a beautiful drape, is warm, crease-free and above all, very nice and stylish.
There are many types of Tweed available: Harris Tweed - Estate Tweed - Country Tweed - Hand Woven Tweed, each with their own special characteristics.
Tweed is available in several patterns and colours and thus perfect for mixing and matching.

Thus tweed is ideal to have a jacket tailored from. A tweed jacket can for example be worn in combination with jeans to create a bridge between a suit and the casual dress style.

Tweed is also very well suited for a variety of activities, think of work, a visit to family or friends, a dinner or just when going for a walk.

In this video we will break down a Bespoke Tweed jacket we tailored for a distinguished gentleman. Made from a beautiful 500 gram Estate Tweed by Bateman & Ogden with a very special personal touch on the buttons.

We will also show you how the checks in this Tweed jacket should align regarding the pattern, one of the staples of bespoke tailoring by which you can recognize a good tailor.

Suiting Fabrics and Cloth: Weaves and Designs: Tweed and Harris Tweed

Tweed is the generic name for a very wide variety of stubbly coarse woollen cloths

Typically of multi coloured carded yarns and twill construction. Tweed clothing is a popular form of leisure wear, it can be tailored into suits or coats used for hunting, coursing or other equestrian and outdoor activities. In a lighter weight, tweed is also used for dresses. Tweeds are an icon of traditional Irish and British country clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear, due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable,are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in both Ireland and the United Kingdom. Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climate which explains again the reason why the suiting fabric is so popular for outdoor activities.

History

The weaving of Tweed began quietly, passed down amongst families on the Scottish Isles of Lewis, Harris, Uist, and Barra for generations. During the harsh winters on the isles, Harris Tweed was one of the few fabrics thick enough to protect someone from freezing to death and so it wasn't long before those families realized they might have be able to make a little money out of their craft. Pretty soonTweed was being traded at markets throughout Scotland, so much in demand that at one point it was actually used as flat out currency. A famous tale even attributes the fabric's very name to a British trader who, in 1830, became intrigued by this mysterious new material from the Scottish isles. In a letter he accidentally misspelled tweel (the Scottish name of twill) as tweed, a happy accident that had a nice ring to it and stuck. Others say that Tweed and its name originated along the similar named river Tweed; the river that separates England from Scotland.

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