At the turn of the century, if a man owned one suit, it was usually the old "trusty blue serge"

Its navy jacket topped white flannels, making the first nationally accepted weekend leisure ensemble. Coming into its own as daytime wear for the man who needed a bridge between the informal and the formal, the navy two-piece was the first lounge suit to be accorded the status of a modern business uniform.

Recommended for town wear with a bowler hat, yet spruce enough to wear when taking a lady to an evening concert, the dark blue dress suit could transport its owner from day to night, weekday to weekend, even showing up at semiformal occasions when black tie was not required.

The quintessential power suit color, navy was the color called upon for the Michael Douglas character Gordon Gekko to deliver his infamous "greed is good" speech in the movie Wall Street, not to mention all serious-minded American presidential candidates, who seldom appear on national television wrapped in anything less patriotic than the color anthem of navy suit, white shirt, and red tie. More enriching than starck black, more ceremonial than charcoal, whether in twill or plain weave, 12 ounces or 8, a navy suit shows off the average man to best advantage.