Full Canvas - Half Canvas - Unlined - Fused - Video (Dutch)

Full Canvas, Half Canvas, Unlined and Fused. The construction and make of your suit

There are several construction methods to make a suit, jacket or overcoat. In order to create added value to your suits and jackets, I would like to address the function of canvas in the construction of a suit or jacket. The use and the correct processing of canvas makes the difference in comfort and appearance.

What is canvas, and how does this relate to the construction of a suit?

Canvas is often a mixture of wool, cotton and primarily, camel and horse hair. The benefit of animal hair is that they can be formed by using moisture, heat and pressure. Think of the way a lady styles her hair by using a heated curling iron in order to give shape to her haircut. Next to that, camel and horse hairs are light weight and strong. The hairs of the mane are the most soft while the hairs of the tail ore more stiff and rugged. The real connoisseur even orders the canvas bespoke, tuned to the specific garment, the fabric the fit and the drape. Several types of fibres are woven in combination with wool and cotton to create different canvasses with different qualities. This in combination with the hair canvas forms the foundation for the construction of your suit.

The woollen canvas makes the most important layer while the hair canvas or rolled hairs bring shape and structure to the breast and shoulder. So has every tailor his tricks of the trade to add his own signature to the garments he makes. The next step is to cover the layer with felt, domette or flannel in order to keep the rugged hairs from chafing.