Suiting Fabrics and Cloth: The Weaves and Designs: Cavalry Twill

Cavalry Twill is a resilient fabric named for its use in making riding pants for cavalry uniforms. Cavalry twill can be recognized by its pronounced double twill line. It is woven in a steep right hand twill. The best is made of wool or worsted, but cavalry twill can be made of blends including cotton, rayon and manufactured fibers. It is used for riding pants, uniforms, sportswear, slacks, coats and suits.

A selection of Cavalry Twill suiting fabric samples available at De Oost. This is the heaviest cloth in the Holland & Sherry collection HS1196 Force 10 Merino. This bunch includes Cavalry Twill of 420grm 13.5oz. The colour range encompasses classic blues and greys along with a tasteful palette of powder blue, lovat green and saffron.


History

Because of the sturdy weave of Cavalry Twill, it was a popular fabric for British cavalry officers. Although Cavalry Twill is the original name, the United States government named it elastique, because of its stretch quality and durability for riding cloths.   

Solid French blue cavalry twill trousers


Technique

Cavalry Twill is a sturdy woven fabric with a steepfirm warp-faced suiting that has a steep twill weave with double twill lines separated by pronounced grooves that are formed by the weftIt has a pronounced double twill line. Often of cotton or wool but may be any fiber.

This strong, rugged cloth is made with a pronounced raised cord on a 63-degree twill weave. The weaves used for calvary twill and elastique are the same. Cavalry twill has a somewhat coarser rib effect than elastique, which is smoother.

Cavalry Twill is categorized as a warp-faced twill. Other warp-faced twills that you might know are:  Chino, Covert, Denim, Drill, Fancy Twill, Gabardine and Lining Twill. Because the Cavalry Twill fabric has double twill lines separated by grooves it is aheavy weight fabric.

3-button blue Cavalry Twill classic wedding suit in full canvas. Click here to see the complete portfolio.