Het kiezen van je model en de stof voor je pak.

Het bezoeken van een bespoke kleermaker en het laten maken van een pak is een persoonlijke ervaring an sich. In deze video leg ik je stap voor stap uit hoe dat in zijn werk gaat. Dit aan de hand van een 3-delig pak dat ik voor me zelf laat maken vertel ik je mijn persoonlijke verhaal en waarom ik bepaalde keuzes maak. Zo krijg je een goede indruk van hoe we jouw verhaal kunnen vertalen naar een goed passend en gemaakt kledingstuk waardoor jij je goed voelt en dit uitstraalt.

Source: https://youtu.be/_bOeNdeprU4

Suiting Fabrics and Cloth The Weaves and Designs Houndstooth

The Houndstooth fabric, also known as Houndstooth Check or Puppytooth, is a medium-size check pattern with jagged edges, which resembles the teeth of a dog. Houndstooth pattern is made out of wool and tweed fabrics and is often characterized by its abstract black and white pattern. It is commonly used for coats and jackets but also very common in women’s dresses and skirts.

  Houndstooth Overcoat fabric from the Pardessus Collection of Holland & Sherry HS1398, available at De Oost.

Houndstooth Overcoat fabric from the Pardessus Collection of Holland & Sherry HS1398, available at De Oost.

Houndstooth suiting fabrics available at De Oost from the Holland & Sherry bunch Crispaire HS1333A.  Click here to see the complete bunch. 


History

Houndstooth checks originated in woven wool cloth of the Scottish Lowlands, but are now used in many other materials. This pattern originated in Scotland in the 1800’s, originally worn by Scottish shepherds. History tells us that the Houndstooth pattern played important role in Scottish past. Every clan in Scotland has their own tartan pattern. Wearing someone else’s tartan without permission was more than a good cause for a brawl so to avoid getting themselves in such situations. Scots may began wearing Houndstooth pattern which did not belong to any clan. 

  Actor Cary Grant and in Houndstooth clothing.  

Actor Cary Grant and in Houndstooth clothing. 

During the 30’s of the last century Houndstooth pattern was adopted by the upper classes as a symbol of wealth. Today this pattern is used in sport jackets and coats for casual occasions. Pair it with striped shirt and solid tie.  In an early reference to houndstooth, De Pinna, a New York City–based men's and women's high-end clothier founded in 1885, included houndstooth checks along with gun club checks and Scotch plaids as part of its 1933 spring men's suits collection.  

 Boxer George Chuvalo in a Houndstooth jacket.

Boxer George Chuvalo in a Houndstooth jacket.

Bespoke Ladies double breasted houndstooth jacket with standing collar and notched lapels; with buttonless cuffs.

Asymmetric Double Breasted Waistcoat in Black and White /Grey Houndstooth fabric.

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Technique

Houndstooth has a twill-weave effect that is achieved by intertwining four dark threads with four light threads (commonly black and white) to create a small checkered pattern that might be said to resemble the teeth of a dog. The traditional houndstooth check is made with alternating bands of four dark and four light threads in both warp and weft/filling woven in a simple 2:2 twill, two over and two under the warp, advancing one thread each pass.

Peach Contrast Houndstooth / Puppytooth Waistcoat made with this fabric from the Holland & Sherry Crispaire collection available at De Oost.  It is part of a 3-piece ensemble in combination with black Herringbone Jacket and Hazel solid hopsack trousers. Click here to see the complete portfolio. 

Elements of a bespoke suit: The cut, the single or double breasted, the buttons and the lapel.

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit. Of course, during your appointment at De Oost we will make sure you make the right decisions. This will result in an exactly right fitting suit, that has all the details you have asked for. To give you an impression of all the possible options, we will share some of our knowledge in this blog.

The Cut

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette, so a jacket does not need to be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are:

  • Double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides.
  • Single-breasted suits, in which the sides just meet at the front down a single row of buttons.

Double-Breasted

   Double Breasted  Unlined Hopsack Sports Jacket.  Click here to see the complete portfolio .

Double Breasted Unlined Hopsack Sports Jacket. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons or snaps. In modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, are either decorative (non-functional) or functional, allowing the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner button, called the jigger, is usually added to parallel fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside. The original double-breasted jacket has six buttons, with three to close. This originated from the naval reefer jacket. The four-button double-breasted jacket that buttons at the lower button is often called the “Kent”, after the man who made it popular—the Duke of Kent.

Single-Breasted

  Single-Breasted Blue     Mohair Suit.   Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Single-Breasted Blue Mohair Suit. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The term single-breasted refers to a coat, jacket or similar garment having one column of buttons a narrow overlap of fabric. In contrast, a double-breasted coat has a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons (jackets with one or four buttons exist, but are not common), and a notch lapel. However, from the 1930’s onwards, peaked lapels, often on a single button jacket, have been variably in fashion, and this is now a classic. The width of the lapels is one of the most changeable aspects of this jacket, and narrow peak lapels on single-breasted jackets became popular during the 2000’s. Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterized by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose American style.


Jacket Buttons

One Button. 1-button Mid Grey Jacket.
Two Buttons. 2-Button Blue Sharkskin Suit With Champagne Lining.
Three buttons. 3-button Classic Wedding Suit Full Canvas French Cavalry Blue.

Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual. Placement and style of buttons are critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline. Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional. The second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the ‘keystone’ layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.


Jacket Lapels



Jacket lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. Notched lapels, the most common, are usually seen on business suits. Peaked lapels are more formal, and nearly always used on double-breasted jackets or coats. Shawl lapels are even more formal and you will hardly ever see this kind of lapels on anything other than dress wear.

Notched Lapel. Navy Herringbone suit with notched lapels, slanted pockets, purple lining and three kissing buttons.
Peak Lapel. Mohair Suit Steel Blue 2 buttons peak lapels slanted pockets.

Shawl Collar. 1-button contemporary suit jacket navy blue with shawl collar slanted jetted pockets and 3*2 waistcoat.


In case that you choose to have a garment tailored by De Oost, everything is possible. The parts of the suit covered in this blog are mentioned to give an impression of the possibilities. In case you have a question about a specific desire, do not hesitate to give us a call (+31-(0)20-6815792).